An adventure in Latteluokta — På äventyr i Latteluokta

(Svenska, se nedan)

5:00, alarm clock. A weekend day going outside means getting up early. The 6:17 train has been replaced by a bus, therefore we have the opportunity to take our bicycles (trains don't take bicycles). We enter the bus, which is for free, not because of Kirunakortet but because buses that replace trains don't sell tickets, and nor did sj.se for this trip.

We have heard that folk are ice-skating on Torneträsk, so we took our chance and cycled over the lake. An outstanding opportunity to see the small villages on the northern shores of Torneträsk, villages that are linked by a road (Talmavägen) that doesn't lead anywhere else.
Unfortunately, as we quickly learned, the ice here was not as blank as the ice further west at Torneträsk near Abisko and Björkliden. Some parts were blank, and some parts had some 5–10 cm of snow. The snow was melting (it was around 0°C) and had a hard surface that the bicycle sometimes fell through through the snow onto the ice. Joel wal doing fine, but me and my bicycle weigh a bit more than him and his, so I was quite a bit slower here. But we enjoyed ourselves and finally reached the other shore. At one point I stepped through the snow into a layer of water below, and got my feed wet.


The last part we were mostly pushing the bicycle, and we amazed the locals as we arrived at Latteluokta pushing our bicycles through the snow.

Several people were quite interested, and quickly we were invited into a home for coffee and food.

As the hosts Barbro and Håkan rightly pointed out, my shoes were not really good. I was wearing thin sports-shoes that I considered okay as long as they remained dry, but being totally wet were not so suitable for cycling 50 km back. Our hosts, with whom we appear to have several common acquaintances, gave me socks and warm winter boots, for me to keep. I've been wearing those the rest of the day, and they are fantastic; I'm sure I will wear them a lot more!

The wind has turned and it's a long way back to Kiruna. It will take at least 2½ hours getting back to the road, probably longer. Håkan offers to give us a ride on his snowmobile, which we gladly accept. We attach the bicycles and are off!


Now all that is left is a relatively uneventful 50 km ride home, mostly against the wind. It's a quiet road and on two or three occasions we are overtaken by people we know. By the time we arrive home it's almost 18:00 and dark, but such an adventurous day is certainly worthwile!

More photographs on Facebook.

Latteluokta seen from Nagirvárri, 29 May 2010

Vi har hört att folk åker skridskor på Torneträsk, därför passade vi på och cyklade över träsket. En utmärkt chans att se de småbyar på norra sidan Torneträsk, som förbinds av en väg (Talmavägen) som annars leder ingenstans. Tyvärr, som vi snabbt upptäckte, var isen här inte lika blank som isen längre västerut nära Abisko och Björkliden. Vissa delar var blank, andra delar hade 5–10 cm snö. Det var nollgradigt och snön smältade litegran, och det fanns en skare som till en början kunde bära Joel men inte mig, men senare inte honom heller. Men vi hade kul och slutligen nådde andra sidan. En gång stod jag plötsligt i vatten som låg under snön, och mina fötter hade blivit våta.



Den sista delen fick vi släpa cykeln, och vi överraskade byborna när vi ankom i Latteluokta med medan vi släpte våra cyklar genom snön.

Folk var ganska intresserade, och snabbt bjöds vi in till kaffe och mat.

Som våra värdar Barbro och Håkan påpekade, och de hade rätt, var mina skor inte riktigt bra. Jag hade på mig "dyngsura gympadojor" som jag tror är hyfsad okej om de är torra och det är nollgradigt, men som inte riktigt gör jobbet när de har blivit våta och jag skulle cykla 5 mil hem. Våra värdar, som vi råkar ha flera delade bekante med, har gett mig riktiga vinterkängor och yllesockor. Jag har haft de på hela dagen, och kommer säkert att ha de på framöver!

Vinden har vänt och det är en lång väg åter till Kiruna. Det kommer att ta minst 2½ timmar till vägen, troligtvis längre. Håkan erbjuder att köra oss till vägen på sin snöskotar, ett anbud som vi tacksamt tar emot. Vi sätter fast cyklarna och kör iväg!

Allting som är kvar är en relativ ohändelserik 5 mil cykeltur hem, mestadels mot vinden. Vägen är ganska ljung och två eller tre gånger övertas vi av bekanta. När vi är äntligen hemma är det nästan 18:00 och mörkt, men en sådan här händelserik dag är det säkert värd!


Mer bilder på Facebook.

Note on last summer

I probably won't be updating the description for my hike last Summer.

Hellemobotn, Padjelanta, Rago: day 1

Below follows a brief tour report from my big hike. More photos here.

Wednesday 4 August

By public transport from Kiruna (Sweden) to Hellemobotn (Tysfjord, Norway). In Narvik I decide to buy a small notebook and a pencil so that I can take notes on the way. This report is largely based on those notes.

After buying a ticket Kjøpsvik–Hellemobotn, I suddenly have awfully many Norwegian coins. I don't want so many coins, I will be carrying them through the wilderness. During a one-hour break in Drag I walk to the local ICA and look for things to get rid of my coins. I decide to buy some strawberries — "only" 40 NOK for 500 g — and a muffin. Good, my coins are gone and I have some fresh fruits before I leave into the wild.

More people get on-board in Drag. Two little blonde girls speaking a mixture of Lulesami and the local dialect of Norwegian. A parcel reading "Ann-Britt, Musken" is carried on-board, as well as more freight and mail for the locals in Musken, a living Sami community halfway to Hellemobotn. The boat proudly carries a Norwegian flag with the symbol of the royal mail. The arrival of the boat must be the event of the day.

Good weather, evening sun. Several people ignore the sign that being on deck is not permitted while
the boat is out. We pass by some farms along the fjord before we descend into the deep shadow casted by the mountains over Musken. Many people are waiting for the boat to arrive. A lot get off, a few get on. A man in a tractor carried reindeer-skins and large wastebaskets into the storage space under the deck. Three Sami teenage boys, their faces reminiscent of Asians, get on board. We proceed to Hellemobotn, a village where many people are but nobody lives.

The innermost part of Hellemofjorden is oriented NW/SE, so that Hellemobotn is placed perfectly for the summer evening sun. Maybe that's why it's a poular place to go. The boat goes here only 2–3 times per week, but it's a perfect place to be in summer. The boat slows down as we arrive on the completely crowded peer. Two others are departing on a hike on this Thursday evening; the first thing they do is covering every single part of their exposed skin with insect repellent, for hundreds of mosquitoes attack us frontally. My strategy is rather to just start walking, a strategy quickly challenged by a dog running barking at me. A woman calls the dog back. I walk three steps and the dog runs at me again. The woman calls louder. The dog confused: chase me away, or obey the woman? She comes out and shouts at me that the dog is sweet. Sure. I somehow manage to pass by and leave civilisation behind me.

I cross through some forest, clearly used for lodging, and quickly depart from the marked trail onto a much smaller path leading to Ruonasvagge, up to the next plateau. Beautiful rivers flowing down granite walls cleanly shaven by glacier ice. Up at the plateau the river Njallajåkgårttje is deep in a canyon, unreachable and thus unsuitable for camping. I cross it with a bridge missing on the map. I proceed to the next, much smaller stream, Riebijåhkå, and end up choosing a campsite where I have neither evening sun nor a view of the fjord. Oh well, I will anyway flee the mosquitoes by crawling into my sleeping bag pretty quickly.

Preparing for big solo hike

Tomorrow, Thursday 4 August, I will depart on a big, solo hike. For safety reasons, I will write down here exactly what my plans are.

Thursday 4/8, 20:00. Departure from Hellemobotn (Vuodnabahta), Tysfjord kommun, Norway. Start hiking over the trail east towards Sweden for around 2 kilometers, then turn right, southward on the Bieslptå plateau.

Friday 5/8. In the morning I will hike to Kanonen, above the Stabburselva canyon, and back. In the afternoon I will leave the trail and go south along Rávggajåhkå towards Ruonasvágge

Saturday 6/8–Saturday 13/8 (exact sleeping places unknown). Up through Ruonasvágge. Crossing from Norway into Sweden (Jokkmokk kommun) between Rr 246 and Rr 247. Along the western side of Slappejaure/Slahpejávrre and crossing Slappejåkka/Slahpejåhkå. Along Målkumjåkka/Moalkkomjåhkå and the northeastern slopes of Vieterjaure/Viehjerjávrre. South crossing Årjep Slappetjåkka/Oarjep Slahpetjåhkkå to the eastern side of Njåmmeljaure/Njoammeljávrre. Crossing Njåmmeljåkka/Njoammeljåhkå, east to Sallohaure/Sållohávrre, then south and southwest along Rakamjåkka/Rahkamjåhkå to the eastern side of Arajaure/Árajávrre. Around Arajaure eastern and southern side, then southwest along Kuoutåivejauratjah/Guovdoajvejávratja, reaching the plateau above Vestenjaure/Vastenjaure/Vastenjávrre. Over the ridge of Vielkispakte/Vielggisbákte westward, along the southern edge of Paktekiesj-jauratj/Båktegiesjávrásj. Descending to Hurrejåkka/Hurrejoahkå, crossing Hurrejåkka and continuing west along the northen shore of Vestenjaure. Crossing Kuoutelisjåkka/Guovddelisjåhkå. Climbing Rastenjarka/Rastesnjárgga, then west to Rastevare/Rastesvárre and along the northern shore of Rastesjauratj. Continuing westward through a pass, then west and southwest along a stream leading to Norway. Crossing into Norway (Sørfold kommune) between Rr 242 and Rr 242a on the trail to Ragohytta. Following the trail from Ragohytta westwards in the direction of Storskogvasshytta. In the forest 100 meter above Storskogvasshytta, turning left on the trail to Sølvskardvatnan and Litlverivatnet/Bassejávrre. Crossing at Litlverivassforsen, then left, south, up the mountain. Along Skardvatnet to Råggejávrre at Svenskhammaren/Tsiekimtjårro, then left again, east on the trail over Litlverivasshamran, along Boadnjásjroahtte, Skråisen, Flatkjølen/Duolbbagjiegńa. South of Rágojiegńa I will turn right, southward over Bálgestjårro/Bålggesčorru. Crossing into Sweden at Rr 240D, at the edge of Rago nasjonalpark, just north of Øvre Veiskivatnet. Then southeast to Kasakjaure/Gásakjávrre. South along the eastern shore of Kasakjaure, crossing the stream coming from Messingmalmvatnan*. South, over or araound Skaitevare/Skájdevárre to the outflow of Leirvatnet at the Norwegian/Swedish-border. Crossing the stream coming out of Leirvatnet and walking along the border, along Rr 240 Aa and another lake until I turn right, into Norway (Fauske kommune), into Skagmadalen, until Blåmannsisvatnet. Back northeast a bit, then turning right uphill to a pass just above lake 1098, then south along the stream to Bajep Sårjåsjávrre/Bajit Sorjosjávri. Turning right along the northern and western shores of Bajep Sårjåsjávrre until I pick up the trail leading from Sorjushytta/Sorjoshytta to Sulitjelma. Following this trail, along Bajep Sårjåsjávrásj and Storelvvatnan to Ny-Sulitjelma, then down to Sulitjelma/Sulečielbma.

* from this point there are several potentially tricky river crossings; if any fail, I return to Svenskhammaren and follow the trail from there westwards until the road.

Saturday 13/8 or Sunday 14/8: arrival in civilisation. I will send text messages to several people informing them that I am safe and on my way back.

Return

I've been away from the sub-arctic for two weeks. I live in Kiruna, Lappland, Sweden, but since the middle of December, I have subsequently been to Spain (holiday), Amsterdam (family visit) and Grenoble (research course). Two months without snow (except the first couple of days, which happened to be the snow-chaos days in western Europe). Now, I have returned.

One week ago, I was in the Provence in France, sitting in shorts with my feet in a lake, and in the evenings, observing a very spectacular night sky (I was staying at the observatory Observatoire de Haute Provence). Yesterday morning, I arrived by the long train ride from Grenoble via Amsterdam back to Kiruna. Fortunately, Swedish trains run fine in -35°C and fortunately, the heating on Swedish trains does, too.

Since then, I have been greeted by arctic phenomenon upon arctic phenomenon.

Yesterday evening, a spectacular auroral display. Rapid fluctuating green and red flashes traveling from horizon to zenith and on to the other horizon within seconds; whenever looking in one direction, I was sure to miss even more spectacular displays in the other direction. Then it suddenly stopped and I could guiltlessly go to bed.

This morning. -42°C. Sundogs with the sun shining through the clouds caused by the town heating facility. Very local; I go down and it's gone.

Then an artificial, man-made one. When it's cold, make some clouds! Twice this morning, once at -39°C and once at -37°C, we made clouds. Get some hot water and pour it down! Video at http://vimeo.com/19964844

And it's cold. Cold. The communication link to the weather station in the swamp 2 km north of my work broke down, but our kitchen thermometer currently indicates -38.7°C. In such temperatures, I rather park my bicycle indoors. Rohloff oil doesn't like those temperatures. Tires don't roll too well. And, worst of all (?), the display of my speedometer completely stops. Well, I know I'm going slowly!

I work outside of town. In town, it's warmer. Considerably so. Currently -29.9°C, but in the afternoon it was -8°C (at work: -25°C; long live the return of the sun at 68.5°N! Spring is coming?!).

I put some pictures at

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=613159&id=581500374&l=5fca560591

Internet woes

I have ordered, but not received, broadband internet. That is not the ISPs fault. The ISP depends on infrastructure as owned by Opennet (Kiruna stadsnät, town-owned fiber network, for all private ISPs to deliver internet). Until recently uni delivered free anonymous internet via this, but they quit. Now Opennet need to install their switches, but they need a request from the landlord (also town-owned). The landlord reconvened after summer vacation yesterday, decided to order Opennet at two other locations but took no decision yet for mine, because a private operator exists. Bredbandsbolaget has parallel infrastructure so currently a monopoly on internet. It means I have ONE possibility to choose internet, a ISP whose services are expensive and bad. Besides, the Opennet socket is in a convenient location (under desk in bedroom), whereas the Bredbandsbolaget socket is in an inconvenient location (entrance apartment). I want to be able to choose my own internet provider!!

Summer in Kiruna

Summer in Kiruna exists. Truely. Okay, it's 6°C right now, but the midnight sun is shining in my bedroom, it hasn't snowed for a month and at day it can actually be comfortably warm (like 17°C). The trees are expulsing their pollen like madmen, they have only a couple of weeks of growing season after all, and this week we had a proper thunderstorm, with lightning, thunder and rain that makes you wet not in five hours, not in five minutes, but actually in five seconds. Apparently, that's possible in Kiruna.

Below are some pictures I took yesterday. As usual, more pictures at my panoramio albums. All pictures are taken between 23:30 and 01:30.







Happy summer!